Exploring Venice

The first time I visited Venice, I arrived Bond-style on a sleek water taxi. I stayed in a hotel on the Grand Canal, queued for a peek inside San Marco Basilica, squeezed in between tourists for a photograph on the Rialto bridge, and took a ferry to the colourful island of Burano. I visited all of the big tourist sites, just like everyone else. This time, I’m doing it very differently. I’m staying with friends who are regular visitors to Venice in an apartment in the Cannaregio district, and discovering the less crowded side of this unique city. Here are a few things to see and do in Venice that I discovered by hanging out with people who know this unique city.

Making the most of Venice

Explore the churches. Saint Mark’s Basilica is Venice’s most famous place of worship. The basilica was built in the 9th century to house the remains of Saint Mark, which were smuggled by Venetian traders from Egypt. It is an extraordinary blend of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and an absolute must-see, but there are more than 100 churches in Venice – some of them, almost as impressive as Saint Mark’s, and not nearly so crowded. Among the many that are worth a visit are:

Santa Maria della Salute – for its magnificent dome, which can be seen from practically anywhere in the city. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari – the austere brick exterior hides an impressive collection of masterpieces by Titian, Bellini and Donatello. Church of Madonna dell’Orto – for its stunning work by Renaissance artist Jacopo Tintoretto, who lived nearby.

Eating and drinking are a big part of a visit to Venice. There are more than 1700 restaurants and bars to try, so you are never going to go thirty or hungry! My favourite bar was situated on a square virtually outside our apartment in Cannaregio – at the Campo Santa Maria Nova. The perfect spot for a pre-dinner Aperol Spritz. For a light bite and a glass of prosecco, head to Cantine del vino gia Schiavi. This Dorsoduora institution serves cichetti (bite-sized tapas) from a small canal-side bar. Just right for a sunny afternoon. For something more substantial, try Osteria Oliva Nera – just five minute walk from St Mark’s Square. The zucchini flowers are delicious! If you feel the need to have a coffee at one of Venice’s iconic cafes on St Mark’s Square, expect to pay big bucks for the privilege. A cappuccino at Gran Caffe Quadri or Gran Caffe Lavena will set you back 16 euros if you are sitting outside.

Research pays off. Ahead of our trip to Venice I listened to the BBC’s brilliant podcast Empire. I was intrigued by the Battle of Lepanto – a great sea battle which took place between the Holy League and the Ottomans in 1571 using oared vessels – and excited to discover that a painting of the battle hangs in the Doge’s Palace museum in Venice. The palace itself is a Gothic masterpiece, and the collections span the breadth of Venice’s cultural and military history. For me, Andrea Vicentino’s colossal painting was a highlight. A little bit of research goes a long way. Understanding Venice’s place in history makes exploring this unique city so much more rewarding.

Buy a day or multi-day vaporetto pass. The city is well serviced by public transport. The vaporetto operate throughout the main canals and service outlying islands, which are also worth exploring. I used the vaparetto to get from place to place, but also just to enjoy the sites. Venice, of course, is best observed from the canals.

Dress for comfort. There are no cars in Venice, so you will be doing a lot of walking. Comfortable footwear in a must! When you are not walking, you will be on and off vaporetto ferries. You don’t want to trip, and end up in a canal.

Enjoy!