It is hard to imagine a more spectacular place for a snow holiday than high in the Swiss Alps at Zermatt. With the Matterhorn towering over 360km of pistes, fantastic slope-side restaurants, trains, gondolas and chairlifts that run with Swiss efficiency, and a postcard perfect village, I can see why celebs love this place.
Bottom: Schwarzsee, View from Chalet Altesse, Restaurant Aroleid
Terrain
Zermatt boasts the highest pistes in Europe, with the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise peaking at a dizzying 3882m above sea level. A run from the top of the piste to the village of Zermatt involves a descent of 2263 metres! The lofty terrain and prevalence of glaciers means that the resort offers ideal conditions in spring when many of the other resorts are getting slushy and bare.
Zermatt also has one of the highest terrain parks in the Alps. It was very popular with the thrill-seekers in my family, but for me, the best runs were the cruisy pistes that gave me time to enjoy the surreal mountain scenery. The jagged peak of the Matterhorn seems to follow you everywhere.
Another important statistic: Zermatt is ranked one of the world’s sunniest places to ski. You have to love that!
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Eating
Food is a very big part of the experience at Zermatt, and you are never far from a superb mountain restaurant wherever you choose to ski. Furi, near the bottom of the Matterhorn Gondola, is home to a cluster of great places to lunch – with cosy interiors, and lots of outdoor tables to enjoy the spring sunshine. I loved Aroleid for the fantastic lamb and crispy kale, the great service, and the sunny outdoor deck. A little further up the slope, at Gitz-Gadi, the rosti with smoked salmon was another favourite. For a hot chocolate with a view call into Iglu Dorf at Riffelberg (also a funky hotel). The Riffelberg and Schwarzsee restaurants also have big decks for a mountain-view lunch or a drink. In the village, the beautiful Restaurant Sonnmatten is the place to go for a generous serving of schnitzel. And if you are looking for a delicious burger, head to Brown Cow. You won’t be disappointed!
Après
I have to admit, the greatest joy for me after a long (or even short) day on the slopes was wrenching off my ski boots, getting into comfy slippers, sipping a hot chocolate and enjoying the view from our lovely accommodation at Chalet Altesse. However, there are plenty of options for those who like to party. Furi is the heart of the après action. The sunny deck at Blatten is a popular stopping-off point on the way the mountain, while Hennu Stall, a little further down the slope, kicks on well after sunset. From there the party crowd moves into town. Harry’s Bar, Brown Cow and Grisley’s are all popular destinations.
On our last day at Zermatt, we happened upon St Patrick’s Day celebrations at Restaurant Alphitta. The iconic Swiss restaurant had turned green for the day, with a folk band, plenty of Guinness and loads of Irish spirit. It was certainly an unforgettable way to finish an incredible family holiday.
Bottom: Riffelberg Restaurant, Restaurant Alphitta
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Getting there
Zermatt is a picturesque four-hour train ride from Geneva. Taxis and buses operate in the car-free village, but walking is the best way to enjoy the atmosphere and that magnificent view of the Matterhorn.
Naturally, all of this high-altitude loveliness comes at a cost. Prices in Zermatt are as steep as the slopes of the Matterhorn. You won’t find bargains here. But for a truly remarkable snow experience, Zermatt is a definite winner – especially in spring, when the snow is good, the lift queues are short and the sun is shining.
Happy travels!
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Julie Fison 