With family and friends to see in three different countries, we set off on a 2300km Euro road trip that took us from France to Italy and on to Austria. We packed our journey into two weeks, but I could have spent weeks, even months, exploring the hilltop villages and castles of central France, the Italian lakes and the Austrian mountains. Next time! Here’s our itinerary with a few places to see, stay and dine along the way.
Paris to Chateauneuf-en-Auxios – France
Having visited Paris many times while living in London, we decide to skip Paris this time. We leave the airport, rent a car and join the Friday afternoon traffic to escape the French capital. Nothing romantic about that! In fact, it is quite terrifying. But we do get to the medieval village of Chateauneuf-en-Auxios just before the sun disappears. That is romantic. The hilltop castle can be seen for miles – so it feels like we are driving into a fairy tale. And then there is the food and the Burgundy wine. Always good! We stay only one night in Chateauneuf-en-Auxios, which gives us time to explore the village, and have a delicious dinner at Le Grill du Castel, but I could have stayed much, much longer!
Chateauneuf-en-Auxios to Mirmande – France
Like other Queenslanders, we are early risers, so the village is still sleeping when we depart. Our breakfast stop is in the ancient city of Beaune – capital of the Burgundy region. After a croissant, coffee, and a wander around this beautiful city, we press on south. Our destination is Mirmande – a tiny village in the Drome district. We last visited almost 30 years ago, so I’m a little nervous about a return trip, but the village is just as I remembered it. The hotel and restaurant La Capitelle are every bit as authentic and fantastic as ever. I highly recommend a visit if you are travelling this way.
Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.
Sally Piper, Author of Bone Memories
Mirmande to Antibes – France
It’s a long drive south today, and despite my hopes to visit lavender fields and villages along the route, we only have time for one brief stop at Pont du Gard – a spectacular Roman aqueduct, built in the first century, to supply water to Nimes. Definitely worth the detour! From there, we drive to Antibes, where we are spending a few nights.
The ancient seaside town of Antibes lies on the French Riviera between Nice and Cannes. It is September when we visit, but it still feels very busy after the quaint villages that we have enjoyed so far. I am relieved to be staying outside the main tourist area – on the Cap d’Antibes. The peninsula is famous for its picturesque rocky coves, the stunning coastal path and its elegant mansions and hotels (we are not staying in any of those). It is the perfect place to unwind, admire the super yachts, walk, swim and enjoy some family time.
Antibes to Roquebrune Cap Martin via Eze – France
From Antibes, we follow the coast. My Instagram feed has been jammed with the many beautiful villages along the French Riviera that I absolutely must visit, but once again, we manage only one stop: the hilltop village of Eze. The beautifully preserved medieval village sits high above the coastline, offering stunning views, cute shops and a good chance to get in some vertical steps. Definitely worth a visit, but it is very touristy.
The hilltop village of Roquebrune, futher along the coastline, is a wonderful surprise. We arrive late in the afternoon and have the ancient walls to ourselves. The fortifications sit 300 metres above the coastline with views over Monaco (and its massive fleet of super yachts) in one direction, and the red roofs of the village in the other. Definitely worth a visit.
Roquebrune to Lake Garda – France/ Italy
Another big drive ahead of us today. We stop in the seaside town of Menton for a coffee and a pastry, and a few (hundred) photos of the old town – which has turned a dazzling shade of gold in the early morning sun – before pressing on to Italy. The road to the lakes district is peppered with tunnels and proves to be a challenging drive, but our destination, Lake Garda, is a beautiful reward. We are staying just outside the town of Malcesine in Hotel Oasi (highly recommended). The super helpful manager sets us up with bikes and recommendations for dinner. We enjoy delicious meals at Vido and Aristotle restaurants, lakeside bike rides, a spot of shopping and a dip in the lake. The weather is closing in, and it’s starting to get cold, so it is a very quick dip!
Lake Garda to Venice – Italy
There are no cars in Venice, so we head to the carpark on the outskirts of town, ditch our vehicle and our jackets, and head for the nearest vaporetto (ferry). We are staying with friends who are regular visitors to Venice, and they guide us around this magnificent city – sharing their favourite places, and managing to largely avoid the tourist crowds. You can read more about Venice here.
Venice to Hallstatt – Italy/ Austria
This is my first visit to Austria and I wish I had more time to explore. The country feels so spacious, clean and green. Plus driving is easy, compared to France and Italy. We spend two nights in Hallstatt – yet another village that looks like it is lifted from the pages of a fairy tale. The hiking, as it turns out, is brutal, but breathtakingly beautiful. I definitely want to come back.
Hallstatt to Vienna – Austria
The weather has taken a turn for the worse, so we make tracks early for our final destination – Vienna. I have no idea why it has taken me so long to visit the Austrian capital. With its grand baroque palaces, classical music traditions, magnificent art, modern aesthetics and schnitzels, what’s not to love about this city! We only have time for one palace and choose the Belvedere for its extensive art collection, which features work by Austria’s most famous artist – Gustav Klimt.
If you enjoy classical music, make sure to check out the program of concerts that take place nightly in palaces, churches and theatres around the city. And for schnitzel, try the Ofenloch Restaurant, but just make sure you are hungry when you arrive!
We stay at the Leo Grand Hotel in the heart of the city. The rooms are so pretty, it feels like a crime to unpack my clothes and mess up things up! It is the perfect place for a city break.
Below: The Kiss, Ofenloch restaurant, Leo Grand Hotel
Happy travels!
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