Hiking the Lycian Way

The Lycian Way is a 540km trail that runs along Turkey’s south coast between Fethiye and Antalya. The pathway follows Roman roads, mule tracks and mountain trails – passing the ruins of ancient cities, rock tombs and local villages, through pine forests and thistle-strewn hillsides, along ridges that overlook the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. We spent a week hiking sections of the trail on a self-guided adventure. Carrying just backpacks, while our luggage was transferred to our next destination, we walked between the pretty coastal town of Kas and the village of Kayakoy. The trail is described as easy to moderate but there were many challenging sections – steep ascents into the mountains and long rocky descents, narrow paths that amounted to little more than goat tracks and endless spiky vegetation – but the rewards were definitely worth the effort. Loved the ancient sites, the mountains, the Turkish pansiyons, the fantastic breakfasts and the empty trails. An unforgettable week!

Ancient sites

Mystery still surrounds the Lycians who lived on the Teke Peninsula, but evidence of their settlements is everywhere on the Lycian Way. The trail passes tombs carved high in the mountains, countless stone sarcophagi and the ruins of ancient towns. My favourite: Phellos, thought to date back to the 6th century BCE and perched high in the mountains above Kas. We had the site to ourselves. Patara is another impressive site – an ancient harbour city that was once the capital of Lycia. The site is partially restored and is popular with tourists.

Accommodation

We stayed in family-run pansiyons – with great pools, lovely gardens, delicious breakfasts and friendly staff. Loved the beautiful terrace at Dardanos Hotel for an afternoon drink and the infinity pool at the Lighthouse for a well-earned dip after a long climb. Our drivers, who ferried us and our bags between walks, were also first rate.

Hiking

Loved the variety of forests, arid farmland, rocky ridges and the towering mountains, but the trail can be difficult to follow. The markers are often few and far between, and at times seem to disappear completely. Long stretches over loose rocks also proved a challenge. Sturdy boots and poles are a must! The big surprise for me: the tranquillity. Most days we only saw a handful of hikers on the trail. The only exception was the path to the Oludeniz. The iconic section of the Lycian Way, with spectacular views, is extremely popular.

Our trip was organised by Macs Adventures – a UK based trekking company. They provided our itinerary, booked accommodation and transfers, and provided maps and hike details, leaving us to enjoy the hiking. A great way to see the Lycian Way.

Istanbul

Of course you wouldn’t go to Turkey and miss Istanbul. This beautiful city has so much history and so much to see. Get hold of an Explorer Pass which includes entry to all of the major sites, plus a sunset or dinner cruise on the Bosphorus. Stay in the Sultanahmet district for easy access to the sites.

Happy travels!

Julie