How to spend a week in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a small island country with so much to explore – tropical wetlands teeming with birdlife, richly-decorated ancient cave temples, well-preserved colonial towns, tranquil gardens, chaotic streets and ever-popular elephant reserves. It is impossible to see everything in a short time, but with only a week to spare, I caught up with two old friends, organised a great guide and hit the road – travelling from Sigiriya to Galle – for the ultimate girls’ week away.

Sigiriya and the North Central Province

This is the cultural heart of the country. With its remarkable temples, lush countryside, peacocks, elephants, intriguing history and friendly people, it was my favourite area to explore. We spent three days here but I could have stayed much, much longer.

Explore

Elephant Reserves are one of the big draws here. They get crowded with safari jeeps, but the experience is still rewarding. We were on our way out of Hurulu park when we came across a mother and tiny elephant calf – only days old. Just magical.

Sigiriya Lion Rock is an ancient 5th century fortress atop a massive granite monolith. The climb to the top features 1000 steps, steel ladders, rock-hugging monkeys and stray dogs, and can be hot and slow-going with the crowds, but provides stunning views of the surrounding countryside and the water gardens, which are thought to be some of the oldest in the world.

Polonnaruva was the medieval capital of Sri Lanka and is now a sprawling UNESCO World Heritage site. Visit the museum for an overview of the 12th century city and allow plenty of time to explore the gardens and impressive monuments.

Dambulla Cave Rock Temples are carved into a mountain high above the town, and contain hundreds of Buddhist statues and paintings. Kings added and retouched the artwork over hundreds of years, creating a breathtaking complex.

Silver Temple is a smaller complex of rock temples near the town of Ridigama, offering a tranquil alternative to Dambulla. We were lucky enough to be invited by the head monk to share tea and traditional sweets. An unexpected treat!

Stay

We stayed at the beautiful Aliya Sigiriya resort (Thema Collection). With a stunning infinity pool overlooking the lush countryside, peacocks honking in the trees during morning yoga sessions, friendly staff and lovely rooms, the hotel was a winner.

Kandy

The old capital of Kandy sits right in the middle of the country, surrounded by mountains. It is a busy city, yet the central area is dominated by a tranquil man-made lake and beautifully manicured places of worship. Take a dawn stroll around the hazy lake, visit the sacred Temple of the Tooth Shrine, wander through the botanical gardens and enjoy a sunset cocktail at Trees hotel for a great view of Kandy. The iconic Queens hotel is looking a little tired but is worth a visit. Gem shops are also a popular destination in Kandy. We bought matching topaz rings to celebrate 30 years of friendship – the grown-up version of matching tattoos, and much easier to remove!

Stay

We spent two nights at the Radh hotel – a small, recently-refurbished hotel, located in the temple district. Perfect for exploring Kandy. Don’t miss the breakfast hoppers!

Tea Plantations and Ella

Tea was first planted during British colonial times after a failed experiment with coffee. Now, huge plantations dominate Sri Lanka’s mountainous Central Highlands, with countless women hand-picking the tender leaves. Many of the plantations offer the chance to sling a basket over your shoulder and pick your own tea. In the steamy heat, this is not my idea of fun, but I did enjoy sitting in a tasting room and sampling tea and cake!

The town of Nuwara Eliya, known as Little England, is the most obvious reminder of colonial times, and boasts a working post office and turf club. But it is the once-tiny village of Ella that pulls the crowds these days. Thanks to the insta-famous Nine Arches bridge, the hilltop outpost has been transformed into a bustling tourist hub with bars lining the main street and small hotels crowded around the hills. The famous Blue Train which runs from Kandy to Ella is currently out of service due to the flood disaster of late 2025, but the bridge is as popular as ever. To avoid the crowds, make sure to visit at dawn or dusk.

There are countless options for pizza and pasta in Ella, but for authentic food try The Clay Pot and the tiny eatery of House of Kitchen.

Stay

We spent two nights at the Zion View Ella Green Retreat – a lovely hillside hotel with fantastic views, great breakfasts and a refreshing pool. Prepare for a steep walk up to the hotel and lots of steps when you get there!

Galle

The fortified town of Galle on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast was first built by the Portuguese in the 16th century to protect their trading interests. It was then conquered by the Dutch, and finally the British. Several centuries of colonial architecture are well-preserved inside the walls of the old city, which now houses boutique hotels, stylish shops, restaurants and a good smattering of ice cream shops. I spent half a day exploring the streets, but I would have loved to check into one of the hotels and enjoy this charming city for a few days. Next time!

Highlights

If I had to pick five highlights from the holiday, I would have to say seeing a tiny elephant at Hurulu reserve at sunset, dawn yoga with peacocks at Aliya Sigiriya resort (actually everything at Aliya), visiting the breath-taking rock cave temples at Dambulla, wandering the charming streets of Galle and spending time with beautiful old friends. Three decades on, and everyone is essentially just the same!

And finally, a big shout out to Nuwan from Lanka Excursions for expert driving and passionate guiding. I will definitely be back for more of Sri Lanka!

Happy travels,

Julie