Whale sharks, dragons and volcanoes – the ultimate family adventure in Indonesia

I was hoping to swim with a whale shark to mark a significant birthday. To spend a bit of quality time with my hubby and two sons, enjoy some tropical weather and Indonesian food. What I got, as we sailed from Komodo National Park to Sumbawa on board SeaTrek’s Ombak Putih, was an action-packed adventure of a lifetime. We snorkelled with manta ray, tip-toed past Komodo dragons, raced water buffaloes, and, of course, swam with a whale shark. We sailed between volcanoes, slept under the Milky Way and danced the Macarena on a remote sandy beach. In short, I got a whole lot more than I bargained for!

Setting off

The adventure began in Labuan Bajo – a busy port town on the eastern tip of Flores – where we boarded our traditional Indonesian pinisi, met the crew and our fellow passengers. By late afternoon we had taken part in a coral restoration project, snorkelled with lion fish and snacked on the most delicious banana fritters I have ever encountered – a busy first day. But we were just warming up.

Marine Life

The following morning our expedition leaders announced our first snorkelling destination for the day – a manta ray cleaning station – a kind of underwater health spa, where the giant filter feeders gather to have their parasites removed by cleaner wrasses. Nothing could be guaranteed. We were not visiting an aquarium. As we slipped into the warm water, we began anxiously scouring the ocean floor for dark shapes. Eventually, we were rewarded. The first manta ray was spotted – black wing tips gently wafting in the currents. Then another appeared, and another. As we drifted with the current, they swan in the opposite direction, filtering the water as the cleaner fish did their work. After reaching the end of our drift, the dinghies delivered us back to our starting position. We dropped into the water again. This time, the first manta ray quickly appeared. It was soon followed by another. An entire column of manta rays swam in formation below us – apparently oblivious to our presence. An unforgettable site. It was just the first of many.

Over the following week, we snorkelled at least once a day – spotting countless hawksbill and green turtles, investigating tiny nudibranchs, discovering moray eels hiding under coral ledges, watching soft coral sway in the currents and tiny clown fish peeking from their anemones. We identified camouflaged crocodile flathead, avoided trident triggerfish and admired the feather sea stars and fan coral. In the ever-changing ocean environment of Komodo National Park, there was always something new to explore. But the biggest marine drawcard was yet to come.

Whale sharks

In Saleh Bay, off the island of Sumbawa, we rose early one morning, grabbed a coffee and light breakfast and headed in the Zodiacs for one of the many fishing platforms. Here, fishermen spray a slurry of krill and water into the ocean – the favourite food of migrating whale sharks. As we approached our destination, we could already see a huge open mouth, taking in the food. We slipped into the water, discovering a five-metre whale shark enjoying the free meal. For almost two hours I watched, mesmerized by this beautiful spotted giant, as it took its fill of krill, then elegantly steered itself in a circuit behind the boat (somehow missing our small band of snorkellers) and returning to the food source. Tragically, whale shark numbers have halved in the past 75 years, with a population of around 15,000 thought to exist globally, so it felt like an incredible privilege to spend time with this endangered species.

Waterfalls and water buffalo

The excitement was not restricted to the ocean. We paddle boarded on a huge volcanic lake, climbed to lookouts, swam in a mountain waterfall and visited a village of pinisi builders. Most unexpected of all – we were invited to take part in the Sumbawa water buffalo races. I wore dark shorts, optimistically expecting to take part. Then I saw what was involved. Two buffalos pulling what looked like a wooden hoe, which doubled as a highly precarious chariot, through a muddy rice paddy. My sons and hubby – never ones to shrink from a challenge – joined one other guest and several crew members as team Ombak Putih took on the local villagers in the time trials. What followed was a messy, but hilarious spectacle as mud flew, buffalos galloped, riders slipped, somersaults were performed and faces were planted very deep in the dubious sludge of the race-track. I had no regrets about watching that event from the sidelines!

Dragons

Then, on the final day of our trip, it came time for the dragons. I had been hearing about the giant lizards of Komodo since the nineties, when I lived in Asia. Stories of villagers, intrepid tourists and photographers being attacked by these almost mythical creatures. So, it was with some trepidation that I walked the long boardwalk on Rinca island – one of only five Indonesian islands inhabited by the dragons – looking out for predators. When we reached the museum, I was relieved to see a fence, but surprised that the gate had been left open. Surely the dragons could walk right in, then I realised the gate was open for us. I had packed binoculars to spot animals on the grassy distant slopes, but, no, we were joining the dragons that had gathered just beyond the fence. As the enormous lizards lumbered around us, we edged (some of us more nervously than others) right through their territory, protected by guides brandishing forked sticks.

Our guides kept telling us how lucky we were to see so many active Komodo dragons. I did feel extremely lucky, but I have to admit, I was also frightened when our group began to spread out, and the dragons appeared to launch a pincer movement. These slow-moving apex predators hunt the island’s buffalo, deer and pigs, and can wind up to 20km/hr when they want to. Their teeth contain so much dangerous bacteria, a bite can land you in hospital. The recovery can take months. Still, getting so close to the dragons was a highlight of the trip!

And pause

Despite the action-packed itinerary, there was time during the week to relax, to take in the sun setting behind Sangeang volcano (which seemed to follow us everywhere) with a gin and tonic in hand, to listen to the crew strumming their guitars on the deck below and catch the scent of some delicious Indonesian meal being prepared in the galley. We enjoyed a relaxed afternoon on Pink Beach, and on the final evening the crew put on a beach barbeque. There was fabulous food, singing, music and lots of dancing with our new friends. For my birthday, the chef surprised me with a cake, and the crew serenaded me with an extended version of Happy Birthday. It was incredibly touching. 

The big birthday

I can’t say I relished the idea of turning 60. I cannot possibly be that old. But sharing a wild Indonesian adventure with my family is something that will stay with me for a lifetime. Thank you to the crew and expedition team of Ombak Putih for making every moment special. I can’t wait to see you all again!

Getting there

Komodo Airport, located in Labuan Bajo, Flores, is an easy one hour flight from Bali. A SeaTrek guide collected us from the airport and we were whisked through the port, then onto waiting Zodiacs for the short ride out to Ombak Putih, a 42 metre traditional timber pinisi, for an unforgettable nine-day adventure!

See SeaTrek Adventures for more details.

Julie x