Six-day Flinders Ranges Road Trip

The Flinders Ranges – about a five-hour drive north of Adelaide – are a geological wonder. The land once sat at the bottom of a huge inland sea, where layers of sediment were deposited by rivers and glaciers, then thrust upwards by tectonic movement. Erosion has exposed 650 million years of history – the most complete sedimentary record in the world for this time period. It is an important, and spectacular, part of the Australian outback. We were lucky enough to visit after heavy rain had transformed the dry red earth into a lush carpet of wildflowers and new life. A magical spectacle!

Here’s where we went:

Day 1 Clare

The historic town of Clare, two hours drive from Adelaide airport, is the heart of South Australia’s riesling country. It is a picturesque town and a beautiful region, dotted with fabulous wineries and restaurants. We are under time pressure and only spend one night here to break the drive to the Flinders Ranges and stock up on a few essentials at the local supermarket. (Options get very limited north of here.) We also discover the surf and turf stonegrill at The Bentleys Hotel which should only be attempted if you haven’t eaten all week!

Day 2 & 3 Prairie Hotel, Parachilna

The remote outpost of Parachilna lies 470km north of Adelaide on the Outback Way. The town was once a thriving pastoral community, alongside the Adelaide to Alice Springs railway line, but now boasts just 7 permanent residents, an airstrip and an iconic outback pub. The Prairie Hotel is not your average Aussie bush boozer. Although it retains its original sandstone charm, it is more of a gastro-hotel (very South Australian) and a destination in its own right. The rooms are tastefully decorated in outback chic, the dining room features Indigenous artwork (all for sale) and the menu is modern Australian with a feral-mixed-grill twist. I didn’t venture down the emu liver parfait route, but I did enjoy the pea croquettes and goat curry , washed down with a glass of fine Barossa shiraz. All very delicious, but for me, the main attraction was happening outside the hotel. As the sun sank beyond the wide plain, the overcast sky turned a breath-taking shade of orange, bathing the rest of the world in a golden light. There is nothing like an outback sunset!

Parachilna Gorge

A short drive from the Prairie Hotel is Parachilna Gorge, where a 30 km dirt road cuts through the landscape. Think creek crossings, rough rocky tracks and spectacular river redgums. The epic 1200km Heysen Trail starts in the gorge, snakes its way through the Flinders Ranges, then all the way to the coastline. We sample a small section of the hike on our first afternoon. The following day we pack a lunch and plenty of water and head for Blinman pools. The trail begins at Angorachina village (more of a petrol station than a village) and follows Blinman Creek to a small waterfall and dark pool. It is a relatively easy, and very pretty, 12km return walk, but there are few signs, and many, many creek crossings that test your balance!

Ikara-Flinders Ranges

After two nights at the Prairie Hotel, we head south, and use the Brachina Gorge to cross from the west to the east side of the Flinders Ranges. The trail has been damaged by recent flooding and is a bone-shaking 4WD track along creek beds and boulders, but definitely worth it for the scenery! About halfway along the track, we peel off from Brachina Gorge and connect to the Bunyeroo Gorge which takes us through more creeks and a winding trail to the Razorback Lookout. Ahead of us – wildflowers, emus and the magnificent terrain of the Flinders Ranges and Wilpena Pound.

Day 4-6 Rawnsley Park Station

We spend three nights at Rawnsley Park Station. The property still runs sheep, but focuses on tourist accommodation – offering self-contained cabins and villas, BBQ facilities, a great restaurant for evening meals (bookings are essential at the Woolshed), spectacular views in every direction, plus easy access to the hikes in nearby Wilpena Pound. An ideal base for exploring the region.

Wilpena Pound

Wilpena Pound – a huge oval-shaped bowl surrounded by towering sedimentary mountains – is the heart of the Flinders Ranges. It is home to a tourist information centre, camping ground and walking trails that range from easy strolls along the creek to full-day mountain hikes. We choose to tackle the second highest peak in the Wilpena Pound range – Mount Ohlssen Bagge. The hike is just 7km return, which sounds like a doddle, but the trail is steep (very steep and tricky in sections) and best completed in the early morning – before the sun gets hot and the little bush flies turn up. The views from the entire rocky trail, as well as the 941m summit, are well worth the leg-trembling effort. Allow 4 hours for the return walk and a nice break at the top.

For a more sedate hike, the walk to Wangarra Lookout is a good one. The 7.8km trail follows the creek and the towering river redgums for much of the way, eventually leading to a restored settlers’ cottage – Hill’s Homestead. From there, the trail takes you over a rocky section to a scenic lookout across Wilpena Pound.

Barossa

To wrap up the trip we head south, make a brief stop in the historic town of Orrorroo for coffee and a muffin at our new favourite country cafe – Two Farmers Daughters – then it’s on to the Barossa wine region – spending three days with family in a cottage in the quaint town of Lyndoch. We sip wine, share fabulous meals and more glorious sunsets. A special way to end our South Australian adventure.

Happy travels!

Julie