Buffalo, crocs and birdlife at Bamurru Plains

Just when I think I know the Northern Territory it offers up new surprises. This time it comes in the shape of a safari-style lux bush lodge that sits at the edge of a vast floodplain, on a working buffalo station – just three hours out of Darwin, but a million miles from the rest of the world. Bamurru Plains takes its name from the magpie geese that congregate here in their thousands, along with jabiru, swamp hens, kingfishers, and of course, crocodiles. In some ways Bamurru is the quintessential Top End experience, but one that relatively few Australians have sampled.

Lodge Life

Like any other safari experience, the day starts at dawn. We are sleeping in a tent-style bungalow with opaque screens that keep out the mozzies but let in the light and views. Around us, the bush is coming to life. Agile wallabies feed on the grass just outside, while whistling kites shriek from the tree tops. Buffalo, that have spent the night in the trees, make their way onto the floodplains with calves in tow. It is the end of the dry season and they kick up the dust in the early morning light as they amble towards the wetlands. Lost calves cry mournfully for their mothers until they are reunited. It is a spectacular start to the day.

Expeditions

After a hearty breakfast in the lodge, we head out for our first expedition. Today we are touring the floodplains on an airboat – a flat-bottom craft propelled by a giant fan. In the vast wetlands, this is the only way to travel. As we glide across the reeds, magpie geese scatter into the sky, glossy swamp hens observe us from their nest of reeds, while the buffalo watch on with a mix of (what looks like) mild curiosity and disdain. A family of jabiru storks, hunting in the shallows, spread their giant wings and take off for safer ground. We press on through a giant garden of lotus flowers, and into the paperbarks. Here we spot sea eagles and vibrant kingfishers. With the engine off, and the boat drifting, it feels like another world.

In the afternoon we venture onto the Mary River in a speedboat. The river is thought to have the highest concentration of saltwater crocodiles in the world, and it certainly lives up to its reputation. We spot enormous crocs resting on the riverbank, others swimming in the currents. Despite their fearsome reputation, they have memories of the bad old days when they were almost hunted to extinction, and disappear into the water when we get close. That suits me just fine!

Every afternoon our friendly guides set up sundowners and canapés at a spectacular spot on the property. We sip drinks on the edge of the floodplain, enjoy Matso’s ginger beer on the river, and try out Green Ant gin among the spindly pandanus palms and corellas, before returning to the lodge to watch the sky turn red and the sun disappear over the wide horizon.

Dining

Meals are a big part of the experience at Bamurru, with the chef team delivering delicious dishes from locally-sourced produce – think freshly caught snapper, king prawns and scallops, as well as buffalo and emu – all seasoned with bush flavours, and accompanied by great Australian wine. Despite spending most of the day sitting, I always have a healthy appetite and have no trouble getting through every course!

Meals are served at a long table, giving guests the chance to mingle. I suppose that is not everyone’s idea of fun, but I love getting to know my fellow travellers– a mix of Australians, Americans, Brits and Europeans. All with interesting adventures and experiences to share.

Bamurru Plains is located between the Mary River and Kakadu. We drove from Darwin, but there is an airstrip on the property, so you can also fly. We spent three nights at Bamurru, which was the perfect amount of time to experience all of the guided excursions, to see an incredible array of birdlife and enjoy fabulous meals. I highly recommend it!

See Bamurru Plains for more details.

Happy travels,

Julie