Entering the Lost World at Cedar Glen Farmstay

A lot can change in a weekend, especially when you’re visiting the Cedar Glen Farmstay in the Lost World region of south east Queensland.

A weekend at home lasts two days. Saturday is for children’s sport, then there’s the lawn and the shopping. Sunday is for the papers and lunch with friends and family. A great weekend away somehow lasts so much longer. Cedar Glen, a cattle farm at the foot of the World Heritage listed Lamington National Park is a portal into that time warp. The farmstay, an hour and a half from Brisbane is a world away from the suburban routine. It is an authentic slice of Australian pastoral life, with the kind of unpretentious family hospitality that money can’t buy. It is also the kind of experience that can turn young PlayStation pilots into budding bushmen and transform bovine-phobes into rookie milk maids. But that’s perhaps one talent the kids won’t be boasting about when they get back to school.

Farm duties at Cedar Glen
Farm duties at Cedar Glen

To stay at Cedar Glen is to become part of the Stephens family. The affable and entertaining Peter Stephens hosts his visitors like they are old friends, making guests comfortable with an old-fashioned welcome and guiding them through the rural experience with his local insight. The family has been hosting visitors at their historic farm near Beaudesert for 25 years. Accommodation is offered in the lovingly restored original homestead. Its walls carry a pictorial history of the Stephens family who have been farming cattle here since the turn of the last century. But a great option for families is one of the three other houses on the property. Here the children can make as much noise as they like. The only disapproving looks are going to come from cows in the neighbouring paddock.

Cedar Glen Farmstay
Cedar Glen Farmstay

A thick mist hangs over the valley at daybreak. As the sun starts to heave itself over the mountain range, a pony leans over our front gate waiting for signs of life from the dairy house. Its body is in silhouette against the white mist. If this isn’t the proverbial pastoral idyll, I don’t know what is. The only thing missing is the smell of bacon and eggs cooking. But it is too early in the morning for that. This is a working farm and there are jobs to be done. Animals need feeding. Eggs must be collected and there’s a cow to be milked. Milking proves to be a popular chore. The cow is securely tied up, making it less of a threat than the flapping chickens and noisy pigs. My sons pursue the milking with the sort of single-minded dedication they normally reserve for rugby. I have to drag them away when we begin to run the risk of missing out on breakfast.

Tree change for beginners at Cedar Glen
Tree change for beginners at Cedar Glen

Eating is a major part of the farmstay experience. Breakfast is a spectacular spread of home-made produce – fresh conserves, local honey, home-made yoghurt and of course locally cured bacon and eggs fresh from the hen house. Lunch is served either at the top of an escarpment, overlooking the farm or in the shade of an ironbark, by the side of the Albert River. This isn’t the kind of sandwiches and chips experience that qualifies for off-site eating at home. Cedar Glen picnics start with a 4WD excursion through rugged terrain and across shallow waterways. Then the chairs are unpacked, the rug is laid out and the billy is boiled. An array of carefully prepared goodies are fished out of the picnic basket  – zucchini slice, sandwiches stuffed with roast beef , bacon and egg quiche and a selection of sweet slices that are irresistible.

Feeding the ducks and chooks
Feeding the ducks and chooks

There’s the chance to burn off a few of those excess calories with a session of boomerang throwing and whip cracking. This all looks very easy. But it’s not. Whips end up wrapped around bodies and boomerangs are lost in the bush. But our hosts remain patient and by the end of the session we are all cracking whips like stockmen – shots echo around the valley confirming our success. (Although I have to admit we need a bit more practice with the boomerangs.)

Fresh billy tea
Fresh billy tea

The next morning my sons are both confidently riding horses, feeding the animals (except for those noisy pigs) and planning their next visit to Cedar Glen. The Cartoon Network clichés have disappeared from their vocabulary and they have even stopped making jokes about the cow dung. What has happened to those two city children I arrived with on Friday afternoon? Their cultural transformation is complete when they start swinging on the Hills Hoist. If ever there were an unsophisticated yet fabulously fun childhood pursuit, this would be it. But a note to Mr Stephens: I promise it wasn’t my children who bent the clothes line. It was like that when we arrived.

Just a Thredbo Tragic

There’s nothing quite like  skiing in Australia.

We have just forked out a wad of cash at the entrance to the Kosciuszko National Park and the temperature is dropping. There’s snow on the peaks and the kids are getting excited. It’s their first ski holiday in Australia and my first visit to Thredbo in 24 years. Canberra is three hours and 10 dead wombats behind us. The hired Statesman is steaming up the mountain road when an emu wanders out of the eucalypts and onto the road. Another follows. That’s something you certainly wouldn’t see in Niseko or Beaver Creek. For nostalgic snow-tragics like me, whose enduring ski memories are linked to the baby pommer and Merritts chairlift, there is no better place to be.

Thredbo is ideal for beginners
Thredbo is ideal for beginners

As everyone knows a trip to the ski fields of Australia is fraught with certain certainties and certain uncertainties. There’s the certainty that a family skiing holiday will set you back the best part of $10,000 and the uncertainty of whether you’ll be skiing on snow, grass or rocks. As luck would have it our holiday coincides with an alignment of the snow planets and we are welcomed at Thredbo by a perfect blanket of snow on the slopes and a dusting of snow on the village. Even my Europhile husband is quietly impressed.

The last time I visited Thredbo I was a student, staying in a modest apartment in Jindabyne, making the daily trek to the ski slopes by coach. This time, it’s convenience all the way. We settle into the centrally located Denman Hotel, just across the way from the Village Square. The hotel has an outstanding restaurant, a well stocked library and a fabulous mountain view. As I tuck into a piping hot banana tarte tatin and make plans for the following morning, snow ploughs are grooming the slopes and snow makers are spewing out white stuff. I wonder why anyone would drag their family across 50 times zones and risk deep vein thrombosis to ski on the other side of the planet when all this is on the door step.

The following morning there is a small hiccup in my perfect-ski-holiday-plan when the children boycott kids’ club. They’ve been scarred by clubs in the French Alps and insist on skiing with us. After a bit of tuition we are all crisscrossing the Merrits basin, schussing down High Noon, riding the Super Trail and traversing the Sundowner. At the end of each glorious day we lock our skis in the conveniently located locker room, ascend the stairs to our lovely hotel and (only slightly) smugly think of friends who chose to ski in New Zealand, where the snow is fantastic but the mountain roads are blocked. Our friends are stranded counting sheep in Methven.

By day five the rain sets in. The beginner slopes of Friday Flat turn to slush and the Village Trail ends in a bog.  By tomorrow the wet snow will have turned to ice and those perfect skiing conditions I enjoyed earlier in the week will just be another chapter in Thredbo folklore. Skiers and snowboarders will return to the more familiar pastime of skating down the mountain. But the snow enthusiasts keep pouring in. Sydneysiders pack onto the Kosciuszko chairlift and Canberra residents jam the Gunbarrel. The forecast of fine weather over the weekend is drawing the crowds.

At the Merritts mountainside eatery, it’s standing room only. My chicken laksa and gluehwein are going cold as we scour the place for somewhere to perch. I remove my rose-tinted goggles and notice that Thredbo does indeed get very crowded. And the difference between great conditions and ordinary ones is just a couple of warm days.

On the tray in front of me is an advertisement for cheap ski holidays in Japan and North America. Suddenly a ski holiday in Canada doesn’t look so absurd, after all. In a good season, Thredbo is fantastic. But I’m not so sure I’d be prepared to part with a small fortune to ski on ice and rocks if conditions weren’t so good. Fingers crossed it won’t be another two decades before I return.