Julie Fison

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Summer holidays are meant to be fun but at Hazard River, danger lurks behind every tree. — Summer holidays are meant to be fun, but at Hazard River danger lurks behind every tree.

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Toads’ Revenge: Jack Wilde, his brother Ben, and his friends Mimi and Lachlan find themselves in a freaky other world in Toads’ Revenge, when they accidently shoot themselves into the future. The kids face their most gruesome adversaries yet – giant mutant cane toads. How will they overcome them and more importantly, how will they get home again?

Here’s a taste of the action:

‘Eenie, meenie, minie, mo . . .’ Ben says, pointing at the buttons as he chants the rhyme.

‘This one looks good,’ he says. He makes a random selection and pulls down a lever for good measure.

The lights in the cinema go down and a nice woman, like a flight attendant, comes on the screen. She starts rattling off some safety instructions. It’s the usual stuff about seatbelts and emergencies. Just why you’d need that stuff to watch a movie is anyone’s guess.

I completely ignore the seatbelt warning. I’m hardly listening at all, until the screen goes black. I wait for the movie to start, wondering what will come up.

That’s when a countdown begins.

‘Ten…nine…eight…’ a serious voice says.

‘We have to get out!’ Mimi shouts, jumping out of her chair. She runs for the exit, banging at the control panel. The door doesn’t budge. The countdown continues.

‘Relax,’ Lachlan says.

But I’m not relaxed. I’m getting nervous. I wish I hadn’t followed the Master of Disaster on another dumb mission.

I jump out of my chair and help Mimi, mindlessly pushing buttons.

The countdown goes on. ‘ Three . . . two . . . one.’

The room starts spinning. Slowly at first, then faster. So fast that I’m hurled against a bare metal wall. Mimi is flung against the door beside me. Lachlan is ripped from his chair. I look around and find Ben. He’s spread-eagled against the television screen. His face is frozen in terror.

We’re all trapped like flies on a piece of honey toast.

‘Enjoy your flight,’ the countdown voice says.

The room is spinning so fast that I can’t

see a thing. It’s all a blur. There’s a flash of white light, a nasty pain between my eyes, then my mind goes blank. (Chapter 1 Toads’ Revenge)

In Blood Money, Jack Wilde thinks he’s made the big time when Ben discovers a bag full of money. Jack and Lachlan want to spend it, but Ben thinks it’s cursed and Mimi wants to take it to the police. The gang decides on some detective work to find out where the money has come from. But that’s when they really get into trouble!

Here’s the point where things start to wrong in Blood Money:

‘ Think, Ben,’ I say. ‘ What were you doing when you first saw the bag?’

Ben scratches his head. He doesn’t say anything. I hope that is because he’s thinking. But he might just be deciding if green thongs are better than red ones. Who knows?

‘I was hanging from the rope swing,’ he says. ‘That’s when I saw the bag.’

Hooray! He thinks!

‘The rope swing!’ I shout, hugging my brother. ‘That’s near here.’

I run through the mangroves until we reach a clearing. A big gum tree stands in the middle. A rope dangles from one of the branches. Dad tied it up there at the start of the holidays. I haven’t used it much, but Ben often comes here. It’s some kind of kangaroo graveyard. Ben likes to look for kangaroo bones. What can I say? It’s just something Stink Collectors do.

I run to the swing and grab hold. I wrap my legs around the rope and swing towards the mangroves. I see something big and black.

‘There!’ I shout. ‘The bag! It’s right behind you, Ben.’

A sports bag is hanging by one handle. It’s on a low branch of a mangrove tree. The bag is bulging. It must be packed with money. I let go of the rope and fly through the air towards the mangroves.

‘Weee!’ I shout. ‘Money does grow on trees!’ (Chapter 2 Blood Money)

Blood Money is fiction, but it was inspired by a true story – a few years ago two brothers were fishing in a quiet creek in NSW and they found a plastic bag full of money – $100,000 in cash! The boys thought long and hard about what to do with it, but eventually handed it in to the police.

Buy books here.

Happy reading!

Julie

How to spend a week in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a small island country with so much to explore – tropical wetlands teeming with birdlife, richly-decorated ancient cave temples, well-preserved colonial towns, tranquil gardens, chaotic streets and ever-popular elephant reserves. It is impossible to see everything in a short time, but with only a week to spare, I caught up with two old friends, organised a great guide and hit the road – travelling from Sigiriya to Galle – for the ultimate girls’ week away.

Top: Hurulu elephant reserve. Sue, Julie, Wendy. Aliya Sigiriya hotel Bottom: Polonnaruva. Aliya peahens. Images: Julie Fison

Sigiriya and the North Central Province

This is the cultural heart of the country. With its remarkable temples, lush countryside, peacocks, elephants, intriguing history and friendly people, it was my favourite area to explore. We spent three days here but I could have stayed much, much longer.

Explore

Elephant Reserves are one of the big draws here. They get crowded with safari jeeps, but the experience is still rewarding. We were on our way out of Hurulu park when we came across a mother and tiny elephant calf – only days old. Just magical.

Sigiriya Lion Rock is an ancient 5th century fortress atop a massive granite monolith. The climb to the top features 1000 steps, steel ladders, rock-hugging monkeys and stray dogs, and can be hot and slow-going with the crowds, but provides stunning views of the surrounding countryside and the water gardens, which are thought to be some of the oldest in the world.

Polonnaruva was the medieval capital of Sri Lanka and is now a sprawling UNESCO World Heritage site. Visit the museum for an overview of the 12th century city and allow plenty of time to explore the gardens and impressive monuments.

Dambulla Cave Rock Temples are carved into a mountain high above the town, and contain hundreds of Buddhist statues and paintings. Kings added and retouched the artwork over hundreds of years, creating a breathtaking complex.

Silver Temple is a smaller complex of rock temples near the town of Ridigama, offering a tranquil alternative to Dambulla. We were lucky enough to be invited by the head monk to share tea and traditional sweets. An unexpected treat!

Stay

We stayed at the beautiful Aliya Sigiriya resort (Thema Collection). With a stunning infinity pool overlooking the lush countryside, peacocks honking in the trees during morning yoga sessions, friendly staff and lovely rooms, the hotel was a winner.

Top: Dambulla rock temple. Middle: Lion Rock, Silver temple, Sigiriya village area Middle: Silver temple, Dambulla rock temple. Bottom: Hurulu reserve, Sigiriya. Images Julie Fison, Sue Hall

Kandy

The old capital of Kandy sits right in the middle of the country, surrounded by mountains. It is a busy city, yet the central area is dominated by a tranquil man-made lake and beautifully manicured places of worship. Take a dawn stroll around the hazy lake, visit the sacred Temple of the Tooth Shrine, wander through the botanical gardens and enjoy a sunset cocktail at Trees hotel for a great view of Kandy. The iconic Queens hotel is looking a little tired but is worth a visit. Gem shops are also a popular destination in Kandy. We bought matching topaz rings to celebrate 30 years of friendship – the grown-up version of matching tattoos, and much easier to remove!

Stay

We spent two nights at the Radh hotel – a small, recently-refurbished hotel, located in the temple district. Perfect for exploring Kandy. Don’t miss the breakfast hoppers!

Top: Kandy Lake, tuk tuks. Middle: Queens hotel, offerings, botanical gardens. Bottom: Temple of the Tooth Relic. Sunset over Kandy. Images: Julie Fison

Tea Plantations and Ella

Tea was first planted during British colonial times after a failed experiment with coffee. Now, huge plantations dominate Sri Lanka’s mountainous Central Highlands, with countless women hand-picking the tender leaves. Many of the plantations offer the chance to sling a basket over your shoulder and pick your own tea. In the steamy heat, this is not my idea of fun, but I did enjoy sitting in a tasting room and sampling tea and cake!

The town of Nuwara Eliya, known as Little England, is the most obvious reminder of colonial times, and boasts a working post office and turf club. But it is the once-tiny village of Ella that pulls the crowds these days. Thanks to the insta-famous Nine Arches bridge, the hilltop outpost has been transformed into a bustling tourist hub with bars lining the main street and small hotels crowded around the hills. The famous Blue Train which runs from Kandy to Ella is currently out of service due to the flood disaster of late 2025, but the bridge is as popular as ever. To avoid the crowds, make sure to visit at dawn or dusk.

There are countless options for pizza and pasta in Ella, but for authentic food try The Clay Pot and the tiny eatery of House of Kitchen.

Stay

We spent two nights at the Zion View Ella Green Retreat – a lovely hillside hotel with fantastic views, great breakfasts and a refreshing pool. Prepare for a steep walk up to the hotel and lots of steps when you get there!

Top: Ella, Nine arches bridge, fresh coconut on Little Adam’s Peak. Middle: Dogs at Nine Arches, Breakfast at Zion View, Pool. Bottom: Nine Arches, Nuwara Eliya post office. Images: Julie Fison

Galle

The fortified town of Galle on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast was first built by the Portuguese in the 16th century to protect their trading interests. It was then conquered by the Dutch, and finally the British. Several centuries of colonial architecture are well-preserved inside the walls of the old city, which now houses boutique hotels, stylish shops, restaurants and a good smattering of ice cream shops. I spent half a day exploring the streets, but I would have loved to check into one of the hotels and enjoy this charming city for a few days. Next time!

Galle’s charming old town. Images: Julie Fison

Highlights

If I had to pick five highlights from the holiday, I would have to say seeing a tiny elephant at Hurulu reserve at sunset, dawn yoga with peacocks at Aliya Sigiriya resort (actually everything at Aliya), visiting the breath-taking rock cave temples at Dambulla, wandering the charming streets of Galle and spending time with beautiful old friends. Three decades on, and everyone is essentially just the same!

And finally, a big shout out to Nuwan from Lanka Excursions for expert driving and passionate guiding. I will definitely be back for more of Sri Lanka!

Happy travels,

Julie

Hiking the Lycian Way

The Lycian Way is a 540km trail that runs along Turkey’s south coast between Fethiye and Antalya. The pathway follows Roman roads, mule tracks and mountain trails – passing the ruins of ancient cities, rock tombs and local villages, through pine forests and thistle-strewn hillsides, along ridges that overlook the sparkling Mediterranean Sea. We spent a week hiking sections of the trail on a self-guided adventure. Carrying just backpacks, while our luggage was transferred to our next destination, we walked between the pretty coastal town of Kas and the village of Kayakoy. The trail is described as easy to moderate but there were many challenging sections – steep ascents into the mountains and long rocky descents, narrow paths that amounted to little more than goat tracks and endless spiky vegetation – but the rewards were definitely worth the effort. Loved the ancient sites, the mountains, the Turkish pansiyons, the fantastic breakfasts and the empty trails. An unforgettable week!

Top: Rope section to the Lycian rock tombs.
Bottom: Hotel Sardunya in Kas, Breakfast in Gocek, Three beaches hike. (Images Julie/John Fison)

Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.

Sally Piper

Ancient sites

Mystery still surrounds the Lycians who lived on the Teke Peninsula, but evidence of their settlements is everywhere on the Lycian Way. The trail passes tombs carved high in the mountains, countless stone sarcophagi and the ruins of ancient towns. My favourite: Phellos, thought to date back to the 6th century BCE and perched high in the mountains above Kas. We had the site to ourselves. Patara is another impressive site – an ancient harbour city that was once the capital of Lycia. The site is partially restored and is popular with tourists.

Top: Ancient Phellos, tortoise
Middle/ Bottom: Ancient Patara, Hotel Dardanos in Patara.
Images: John/Julie Fison

Accommodation

We stayed in family-run pansiyons – with great pools, lovely gardens, delicious breakfasts and friendly staff. Loved the beautiful terrace at Dardanos Hotel for an afternoon drink and the infinity pool at the Lighthouse for a well-earned dip after a long climb. Our drivers, who ferried us and our bags between walks, were also first rate.

Top: Hiking to Gey
Bottom: Lighthouse Hotel
Images: Julie/ John Fison

A contemporary pick-a-path series about life, first crushes and friendship, that lets the reader choose how the story goes!

Buy it here!

Hiking

Loved the variety of forests, arid farmland, rocky ridges and the towering mountains, but the trail can be difficult to follow. The markers are often few and far between, and at times seem to disappear completely. Long stretches over loose rocks also proved a challenge. Sturdy boots and poles are a must! The big surprise for me: the tranquillity. Most days we only saw a handful of hikers on the trail. The only exception was the path to the Oludeniz. The iconic section of the Lycian Way, with spectacular views, is extremely popular.

Top: Oludeniz, Villa Rhapsody
Bottom: Oludeniz, Kayakoy
Images: Julie/ John Fison

Our trip was organised by Macs Adventures – a UK based trekking company. They provided our itinerary, booked accommodation and transfers, and provided maps and hike details, leaving us to enjoy the hiking. A great way to see the Lycian Way.

Istanbul

Of course you wouldn’t go to Turkey and miss Istanbul. This beautiful city has so much history and so much to see. Get hold of an Explorer Pass which includes entry to all of the major sites, plus a sunset or dinner cruise on the Bosphorus. Stay in the Sultanahmet district for easy access to the sites.

Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia.
Topkapi Palace, Basilica Cistern, Dolmabahce Palace.
Images: Julie Fison

Happy travels!

Julie

How to spend a long weekend in Kakadu

Kakadu National Park covers a massive 20,000 square kilometres of the Northern Territory – taking in wetlands, towering waterfalls and outstanding rock art. It’s a lot to see in just one weekend But here are a few places not to miss if you are tight on time, but keen for adventure!

Darwin, Ella by Minoli, Yellow Water. Images: Julie Fison

Day 1 – Darwin

We start the weekend in Darwin. While the chaps are out barramundi fishing, I opt for for a relaxing afternoon. A swim in the hotel pool, then a stroll down the esplanade to see the sunset over the harbour, followed by dinner at Ella by Minoli. This stylish restaurant, tucked at the end of an alley, serves the best Sri Lankan food this side of Colombo. And there are great cocktails to match! Don’t miss this gem if you are spending the night in Darwin.

Buy it here

Choose Your Own Ever After is a contemporary pick-a-path series about friendship and first crushes that lets the reader decide how the story goes. Perfect for young readers who like to call the shots!

Day 2 – Kakadu National Park

We are up early for the three-hour drive to Kakadu National Park. Our first stop is the Bark Hut Inn – one of the NT’s iconic pubs. Sadly, it’s way too early for lunch, so we stock up on merch, and get back on the highway. Our destination this morning is Ubirr, which boasts some of the world’s most impressive rock art. The road into Ubirr has just reopened for the dry season, but the creek crossings add to the adventure of getting to the site.

From the carpark there is a one kilometre circuit walk that takes you past rock art galleries that feature traditional x-ray paintings from the past 1500 years – showing fish, wallabies, goanna and echidna. There is even a painting of an thylacine (Tasmanian tiger) thought to have become extinct on the Australian mainland 2000-3000 years ago. Ubirr also offers a good vantage point to see the surrounding wetlands, which stretch as far as the eye can see.

If you are keen to see more rock art, make sure to visit Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), which is just off the Kakadu highway. Aboriginal people lived here in the wet seasons, and their shelters feature paintings of the many animals they hunted, as well as creation stories.

The Nawurlandja lookout, just a short drive away, is the place to take in the sunset. The top of the rocky slope offers a superb view over the billabong and the Arnhem escarpment. Stunning in any weather.

We are spending the night at Cooinda Lodge. There are lots of accommodation options here – from camping to cabins, as well as a pool, and a restaurant that serves good pub grub. Plus it is the start point for cruises on the neighbouring Yellow Water – which is where we are heading in the morning.

Yellow Water, Cooinda Lodge pizza, Ubirr rock art. Images: Julie Fison

Ubirr, Ubirr circuit walk, Yellow Water. Images: Julie/ John Fison

Mamukala wetlands, Ubirr, Ubirr lookout. Images: Julie Fison

Day 3 – Yellow Water cruise and waterfalls

It’s a pre-dawn start to the day. A bus collects us from Cooinda Lodge for the very short drive to Yellow Water. A cruise on the wetlands – teeming with birdlife and crocodiles – is a must on any visit to Kakadu. Dawn and dusk are the best times to experience the magical ever-changing light, the tranquility, the wildlife and the entertaining commentary.

Two boys, two mothers, one life-changing night. “ONE PUNCH is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love.”

Buy it here

If you are lucky enough to be in Kakadu in the middle of the dry season you’ll want to explore Gunlom, Jim Jim or Twin Falls – the highest waterfalls in the park. But if you are looking for a refreshing alternative, Motor Car Falls is the perfect place to escape the heat. To access the magnificent waterhole, head to Yurmikmik walks – about an hour and a half from Cooinda Lodge. The falls are a 3km walk from the car park, which means you will definitely be ready for a swim when you get there!

More time to explore

Head to Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge for tranquil waterways, rock art and stunning sunsets.

Or splash out on some off-grid bush luxury at Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Lodge .

Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge. Image: Julie Fison

Seven Spirit Bay Wilderness Lodge. Images: Julie/John Fison

Happy travels!

New look for How to Get to Rio and Call of the Wild

I am so excited to see How to Get to Rio and Call of the Wild in these bright and beautiful new covers. Julia Murray has done a fantastic job designing new covers for the entire Choose Your Own Ever After series. The pick-a-path books are suitable for kids 10+, and let the reader decide how the story goes! Available now at your favourite book shop!

Call of the Wild and How to Get to Rio – part of the Choose Your Own Ever After series

Buy books

How to Get to Rio lets you decided what Kitty should do.

Should Kitty pursue the boy she’s been crushing on, or put her friendships first? It’s up to you to choose her fate in this lively pick-a-path-book about life, first crushes and friendship.

Buy How to Get to Rio

Dealing with real world issues, How to Get to Rio gives the reader a delicious amount of power over the story they read – what will your Ever After be?

The Little Bookroom

Call of the Wild lets you decide what Phoebe should do.

Should Phoebe put her values and friends above parties and cute boys? It’s up to you to choose her fate in this lively pick-a-path-book about life, first crushes and friendship.

Buy Call of the Wild

Choose Your Own Ever After series. Stories by Julie Fison, Nova Weetman and Kate Welshman. Covers by Julia Murray

The Choose Your Own Ever After series is published by Hardie Grant Children’s Publishing.

Full of friends, family, school and first love, this book is fun, sensitive and has great characters that the girls will recognise and relate to (especially the annoying little brothers!). Best of all, you can read this book lots of times with lots of different stories. Perfect for Year 7 & 8 girls.

Lamont Books

Happy reading!

Hiking South Australia’s Wild South Coast Way

Stretching 1200km from the Flinders Ranges to Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula, the Heysen Trail is the longest hiking trail in Australia. If you haven’t heard of it, you are not alone. This epic walking path flies largely under the radar when it comes to walking tourism. Yet the track passes through some of South Australia’s most spectacular scenery – traversing rugged mountains, native bushland and along the clifftops of the stunning coastline.

For a taste of the Heysen Trail, I joined a group of bookclub buddies on a guided hike – walking along the southern section of the path. The Wild South Coast Way, as it is known, certainly lived up to its name. But what’s a bit of wind and rain when you have great friends, good food, and a luxury lodge to retreat to after a long day on the trail.

Bookclubbers on the bluff, Newland Head Conservation area

One Punch takes a simple premise and turns it into a tight study of class and human nature – what we believe to be true about ourselves, and those we love, and who we really are. A crime is the pivot point for a sharp observation of human nature and blends compassion and humour in equal measure.

Meredith Jaffe, Author of The Tricky Art of Forgiveness

Hiking in nature is a well-established means of improving muscle strength, reducing stress and boosting wellbeing. Add to that grazing kangaroos, waterfalls, rainbows, ancient grass trees, twisted mallee gums, yoga and sound bathing, and you have the recipe for the perfect long weekend.

Top: Newland Head, Kings Beach retreat, Newland Head. Bottom: Deep Creek waterfall, sign, Deep Creek circuit. Images: Nancy McLeod/ Megan Andrews/ Julie Fison

Details

Our three-day itinerary was organised by Big Heart Adventures – a South Australian company that did a fantastic job of tailoring a program for our group. Our lovely guides collected us from Adelaide, took care of meals and logistics, and shared their knowledge of the local flora, and the history of the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had a good balance of bushland and coastal trails, and covered a distance of 24km over three days, which left plenty of time to enjoy our fabulous accommodation.

For two nights we stayed at a clifftop house overlooking Waitpinga and West Island. With a whale breaching in the ocean below us, an echidna pottering around out the back, and loads of space for post-hike wines, delicious home-cooked meals and fireside chats, the house was the ultimate venue for a weekend away.

Sunrise over Waitpinga and West Island. Image: Julie Fison

The Wild South Coast Way is a spectacular part of South Australia’s Heysen Trail. But with so much more to explore, I will definitely be back!

Happy travels!

Julie

Paris to Vienna Road Trip

With family and friends to see in three different countries, we set off on a 2300km Euro road trip that took us from France to Italy and on to Austria. We packed our journey into two weeks, but I could have spent weeks, even months, exploring the hilltop villages and castles of central France, the Italian lakes and the Austrian mountains. Next time! Here’s our itinerary with a few places to see, stay and dine along the way.

Paris to Chateauneuf-en-Auxios – France

Having visited Paris many times while living in London, we decide to skip Paris this time. We leave the airport, rent a car and join the Friday afternoon traffic to escape the French capital. Nothing romantic about that! In fact, it is quite terrifying. But we do get to the medieval village of Chateauneuf-en-Auxios just before the sun disappears. That is romantic. The hilltop castle can be seen for miles – so it feels like we are driving into a fairy tale. And then there is the food and the Burgundy wine. Always good! We stay only one night in Chateauneuf-en-Auxios, which gives us time to explore the village, and have a delicious dinner at Le Grill du Castel, but I could have stayed much, much longer!

Chateauneuf-en-Auxios looks to be plucked from the pages of a fairytale. Images: Julie Fison

Chateauneuf-en-Auxios to Mirmande – France

Like other Queenslanders, we are early risers, so the village is still sleeping when we depart. Our breakfast stop is in the ancient city of Beaune – capital of the Burgundy region. After a croissant, coffee, and a wander around this beautiful city, we press on south. Our destination is Mirmande – a tiny village in the Drome district. We last visited almost 30 years ago, so I’m a little nervous about a return trip, but the village is just as I remembered it. The hotel and restaurant La Capitelle are every bit as authentic and fantastic as ever. I highly recommend a visit if you are travelling this way.

Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.

Sally Piper, Author of Bone Memories

Mirmande to Antibes – France

It’s a long drive south today, and despite my hopes to visit lavender fields and villages along the route, we only have time for one brief stop at Pont du Gard – a spectacular Roman aqueduct, built in the first century, to supply water to Nimes. Definitely worth the detour! From there, we drive to Antibes, where we are spending a few nights.

Top: Cap d’Antibes on the French Riviera. Bottom: Pont du Gard, Roquebrune Cap Martin. Images: Julie/ John Fison

Hotel Restaurant La Capitelle, Mirmande, Eze. Images: Julie Fison

The ancient seaside town of Antibes lies on the French Riviera between Nice and Cannes. It is September when we visit, but it still feels very busy after the quaint villages that we have enjoyed so far. I am relieved to be staying outside the main tourist area – on the Cap d’Antibes. The peninsula is famous for its picturesque rocky coves, the stunning coastal path and its elegant mansions and hotels (we are not staying in any of those). It is the perfect place to unwind, admire the super yachts, walk, swim and enjoy some family time.

Antibes to Roquebrune Cap Martin via Eze – France

Coffee stop at Eze, and Roquebrune Cap Martin. Images: John/ Julie Fison

From Antibes, we follow the coast. My Instagram feed has been jammed with the many beautiful villages along the French Riviera that I absolutely must visit, but once again, we manage only one stop: the hilltop village of Eze. The beautifully preserved medieval village sits high above the coastline, offering stunning views, cute shops and a good chance to get in some vertical steps. Definitely worth a visit, but it is very touristy.

The hilltop village of Roquebrune, futher along the coastline, is a wonderful surprise. We arrive late in the afternoon and have the ancient walls to ourselves. The fortifications sit 300 metres above the coastline with views over Monaco (and its massive fleet of super yachts) in one direction, and the red roofs of the village in the other. Definitely worth a visit.

Roquebrune to Lake Garda – France/ Italy

Colours of Menton, France and Malcesine on Lake Garda. Images: John/ Julie Fison

Another big drive ahead of us today. We stop in the seaside town of Menton for a coffee and a pastry, and a few (hundred) photos of the old town – which has turned a dazzling shade of gold in the early morning sun – before pressing on to Italy. The road to the lakes district is peppered with tunnels and proves to be a challenging drive, but our destination, Lake Garda, is a beautiful reward. We are staying just outside the town of Malcesine in Hotel Oasi (highly recommended). The super helpful manager sets us up with bikes and recommendations for dinner. We enjoy delicious meals at Vido and Aristotle restaurants, lakeside bike rides, a spot of shopping and a dip in the lake. The weather is closing in, and it’s starting to get cold, so it is a very quick dip!

Lake Garda to Venice – Italy

There are no cars in Venice, so we head to the carpark on the outskirts of town, ditch our vehicle and our jackets, and head for the nearest vaporetto (ferry). We are staying with friends who are regular visitors to Venice, and they guide us around this magnificent city – sharing their favourite places, and managing to largely avoid the tourist crowds. You can read more about Venice here.

Venice to Hallstatt – Italy/ Austria

This is my first visit to Austria and I wish I had more time to explore. The country feels so spacious, clean and green. Plus driving is easy, compared to France and Italy. We spend two nights in Hallstatt – yet another village that looks like it is lifted from the pages of a fairy tale. The hiking, as it turns out, is brutal, but breathtakingly beautiful. I definitely want to come back.

Hiking around the Austrian village of Hallstatt. Images: Julie/ John Fison

Hallstatt to Vienna – Austria

The weather has taken a turn for the worse, so we make tracks early for our final destination – Vienna. I have no idea why it has taken me so long to visit the Austrian capital. With its grand baroque palaces, classical music traditions, magnificent art, modern aesthetics and schnitzels, what’s not to love about this city! We only have time for one palace and choose the Belvedere for its extensive art collection, which features work by Austria’s most famous artist – Gustav Klimt.

If you enjoy classical music, make sure to check out the program of concerts that take place nightly in palaces, churches and theatres around the city. And for schnitzel, try the Ofenloch Restaurant, but just make sure you are hungry when you arrive!

We stay at the Leo Grand Hotel in the heart of the city. The rooms are so pretty, it feels like a crime to unpack my clothes and mess up things up! It is the perfect place for a city break.

Above: Beautiful Vienna. Images: Julie/ John Fison
Below: The Kiss, Ofenloch restaurant, Leo Grand Hotel

Happy travels!

Spring skiing in Zermatt

It is hard to imagine a more spectacular place for a snow holiday than high in the Swiss Alps at Zermatt. With the Matterhorn towering over 360km of pistes, fantastic slope-side restaurants, trains, gondolas and chairlifts that run with Swiss efficiency, and a postcard perfect village, I can see why celebs love this place.

Top: Iglu Dorf, Matterhorn
Bottom: Schwarzsee, View from Chalet Altesse, Restaurant Aroleid

Terrain

Zermatt boasts the highest pistes in Europe, with the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise peaking at a dizzying 3882m above sea level. A run from the top of the piste to the village of Zermatt involves a descent of 2263 metres! The lofty terrain and prevalence of glaciers means that the resort offers ideal conditions in spring when many of the other resorts are getting slushy and bare.

Zermatt also has one of the highest terrain parks in the Alps. It was very popular with the thrill-seekers in my family, but for me, the best runs were the cruisy pistes that gave me time to enjoy the surreal mountain scenery. The jagged peak of the Matterhorn seems to follow you everywhere.

Another important statistic: Zermatt is ranked one of the world’s sunniest places to ski. You have to love that!

Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.

Sally Piper, Author of Bone Memories

Iglu Dorf, Trockener Steg terrain park, Schwarzsee

Eating

Food is a very big part of the experience at Zermatt, and you are never far from a superb mountain restaurant wherever you choose to ski. Furi, near the bottom of the Matterhorn Gondola, is home to a cluster of great places to lunch – with cosy interiors, and lots of outdoor tables to enjoy the spring sunshine. I loved Aroleid for the fantastic lamb and crispy kale, the great service, and the sunny outdoor deck. A little further up the slope, at Gitz-Gadi, the rosti with smoked salmon was another favourite. For a hot chocolate with a view call into Iglu Dorf at Riffelberg (also a funky hotel). The Riffelberg and Schwarzsee restaurants also have big decks for a mountain-view lunch or a drink. In the village, the beautiful Restaurant Sonnmatten is the place to go for a generous serving of schnitzel. And if you are looking for a delicious burger, head to Brown Cow. You won’t be disappointed!

Top: Restaurant Gitz-Gadi, Restaurant Aroleid, Riffelberg. Bottom: Restaurant Sonnmatten, Schnitzel, Furgg Toblerone

Après

I have to admit, the greatest joy for me after a long (or even short) day on the slopes was wrenching off my ski boots, getting into comfy slippers, sipping a hot chocolate and enjoying the view from our lovely accommodation at Chalet Altesse. However, there are plenty of options for those who like to party. Furi is the heart of the après action. The sunny deck at Blatten is a popular stopping-off point on the way the mountain, while Hennu Stall, a little further down the slope, kicks on well after sunset. From there the party crowd moves into town. Harry’s Bar, Brown Cow and Grisley’s are all popular destinations.

On our last day at Zermatt, we happened upon St Patrick’s Day celebrations at Restaurant Alphitta. The iconic Swiss restaurant had turned green for the day, with a folk band, plenty of Guinness and loads of Irish spirit. It was certainly an unforgettable way to finish an incredible family holiday.

Top:Iglu Dorf, Matterhorn, Schwarzsee Restaurant.
Bottom: Riffelberg Restaurant, Restaurant Alphitta

A contemporary pick-a-path series about life, first crushes and friendship, that lets the reader choose how the story goes!

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Getting there

Zermatt is a picturesque four-hour train ride from Geneva. Taxis and buses operate in the car-free village, but walking is the best way to enjoy the atmosphere and that magnificent view of the Matterhorn.

Naturally, all of this high-altitude loveliness comes at a cost. Prices in Zermatt are as steep as the slopes of the Matterhorn. You won’t find bargains here. But for a truly remarkable snow experience, Zermatt is a definite winner – especially in spring, when the snow is good, the lift queues are short and the sun is shining.

Happy travels!

Exploring Venice

The first time I visited Venice, I arrived Bond-style on a sleek water taxi. I stayed in a hotel on the Grand Canal, queued for a peek inside San Marco Basilica, squeezed in between tourists for a photograph on the Rialto bridge, and took a ferry to the colourful island of Burano. I visited all of the big tourist sites, just like everyone else. This time, I’m doing it very differently. I’m staying with friends who are regular visitors to Venice in an apartment in the Cannaregio district, and discovering the less crowded side of this unique city. Here are a few things to see and do in Venice that I discovered by hanging out with people who know this unique city.

Top: Rio della Sensa, Grand Canal, San Marco Basilica.
Bottom: Dawn at Cannaregio, San Polo, fish markets.
Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

Making the most of Venice

Explore the churches. Saint Mark’s Basilica is Venice’s most famous place of worship. The basilica was built in the 9th century to house the remains of Saint Mark, which were smuggled by Venetian traders from Egypt. It is an extraordinary blend of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and an absolute must-see, but there are more than 100 churches in Venice – some of them, almost as impressive as Saint Mark’s, and not nearly so crowded. Among the many that are worth a visit are:

Santa Maria della Salute – for its magnificent dome, which can be seen from practically anywhere in the city. Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari – the austere brick exterior hides an impressive collection of masterpieces by Titian, Bellini and Donatello. Church of Madonna dell’Orto – for its stunning work by Renaissance artist Jacopo Tintoretto, who lived nearby.

Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.

Sally Piper, Author of Bone Memories

Eating and drinking are a big part of a visit to Venice. There are more than 1700 restaurants and bars to try, so you are never going to go thirty or hungry! My favourite bar was situated on a square virtually outside our apartment in Cannaregio – at the Campo Santa Maria Nova. The perfect spot for a pre-dinner Aperol Spritz. For a light bite and a glass of prosecco, head to Cantine del vino gia Schiavi. This Dorsoduora institution serves cichetti (bite-sized tapas) from a small canal-side bar. Just right for a sunny afternoon. For something more substantial, try Osteria Oliva Nera – just five minute walk from St Mark’s Square. The zucchini flowers are delicious! If you feel the need to have a coffee at one of Venice’s iconic cafes on St Mark’s Square, expect to pay big bucks for the privilege. A cappuccino at Gran Caffe Quadri or Gran Caffe Lavena will set you back 16 euros if you are sitting outside.

Top: Chiesa di San Polo, Rio di Ca Foscari, Grand Canal.
Bottom: Lunch at Oliva Nera, Doge’s Palace, Cannaregio shop.
Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

Research pays off. Ahead of our trip to Venice I listened to the BBC’s brilliant podcast Empire. I was intrigued by the Battle of Lepanto – a great sea battle which took place between the Holy League and the Ottomans in 1571 using oared vessels – and excited to discover that a painting of the battle hangs in the Doge’s Palace museum in Venice. The palace itself is a Gothic masterpiece, and the collections span the breadth of Venice’s cultural and military history. For me, Andrea Vicentino’s colossal painting was a highlight. A little bit of research goes a long way. Understanding Venice’s place in history makes exploring this unique city so much more rewarding.

Doge’s Palace, Battle of Lepanto, Bridge of Sighs that connects the palace to the prison.
Images: Julie Fison

Buy a day or multi-day vaporetto pass. The city is well serviced by public transport. The vaporetto operate throughout the main canals and service outlying islands, which are also worth exploring. I used the vaparetto to get from place to place, but also just to enjoy the sites. Venice, of course, is best observed from the canals.

Top: Exploring Venice with friends, Cannaregio, Giudecca.
Bottom: Sunrise at Cannaregio, Sundowners at Giudecca.
Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

Lunch at Schiavi on Squero San Travaso, Tintoretto detail inside Church of Madonna dell’Orto, Rio di San Barnaba.
Images: John Fison/ Julie Fison

Dress for comfort. There are no cars in Venice, so you will be doing a lot of walking. Comfortable footwear in a must! When you are not walking, you will be on and off vaporetto ferries. You don’t want to trip, and end up in a canal.

Enjoy!

A taste of England’s South West Coast Path

Think of a holiday in England, and you are likely to imagine Big Ben, the Tower of London, gentle green hills and quaint villages, but the coast – with its dubious weather and gaudy games arcades – rarely features in top places to visit. Yet if you love hiking, you need to put England’s South West Coast Path on your bucket list right this second. The trail is the longest marked path in the country, and runs 630 miles (1014km) from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset – clinging to Heritage Coasts, passing through Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and meandering past Bronze-age burial sites, castles, churches and farmland. It has been used over the centuries by smugglers, fishermen and coastguards, and offers the ultimate vantage point to take in the breathtaking coastline. Known as a walkers’ paradise, it is also a popular destination for film makers. Doc Martin, The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society, Rebecca and House of Dragons are just a few of the productions filmed here.

The full trail takes weeks to complete, but even with limited time (and a car), there are plenty of options for sampling this incredible area. The tough part is choosing which places to visit. With four days to spare, we chose a handful of day walks in North Devon and nearby Cornwall – starting at Hartley Quay, famous for its stunning rock formations, and moving on to Tintagel, home of the legendary King Arthur. It was June – the sun was out, the wildflowers were blooming, and the coastline was every bit the star of the show.

Hartland Peninsula, North Devon

With compressed sedimentary layers soaring above the Atlantic Ocean, waterfalls, and a 16^th century quay, this remote stretch of North Devon coastline has to be one of the most spectacular vistas in the entire country. We stayed two days at Hartland Quay, which was originally built to ship lime, slate and coal from across the Bristol channel. By 1896 the pier had fallen into disrepair, but a slipway was rebuilt in the 70s, and provides access for small boats and enthusiastic swimmers. The hotel and pub, overlooking the quay, date back to the 19^th century. With fabulous views, great food and very tasty local cider, this is an ideal base for exploring the region. We spent two nights here – walking south towards Spekes Mill waterfall on our first afternoon, then doing a longer walk the following day to Hartland Point. The scenery speaks for itself.

Hartland Peninsula in Devon. My new favourite hiking destination. Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

Tintagel, Cornwall

This rocky outcrop on the Cornish coastline has a special place in British history. It was the stronghold of Cornish kings from the 5^th to the 7^th century. Legend has it that King Arthur was conceived here with the help of Merlin. In 1230, inspired by the myths, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, built a castle here. Very little of the castle is left, but the remains are perched on a cliff top and an adjacent island. The setting is absolutely spectacular.

Julie Fison catapults readers into the murky and contested waters of love, morality and justice from the first page of One Punch and holds them, transfixed, right till the end. It’s a story that exposes the consequences of unconditional love; the cost and burden this delivers parents, their children and anyone caught in its more nefarious orbit. One Punch is a raw, urgent and chilling portrait of family loyalty and the frightening repercussions of being blind to the faults in those we love. Read this book and your conviction about what is right and wrong will be changed forever.

Sally Piper, Author of Bone Memories

Buy One Punch

It is possible to walk along the South West Coast Path from Hartland Quay to Tintagel, over several days, but we cut out a few miles by driving to the impossibly pretty coastal village of Boscastle, and walking to Tintagel from there. This was a full day walk, and meant we had to get a taxi back to Boscastle to collect the car, but it was totally worth the effort. The cliff-top trail passes ancient settlements, slates fences, fields of wildflowers, and incredible rock formations. It’s another unmissable section of the South West Coast Path.

Boscastle to Tintagel on the South West Coast Path. Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

By the time we arrived at Tintagel the sea mist was closing in, which seemed appropriate for an area steeped in folklore. The village itself is very touristy, but the surrounding landscape is magical. We stayed at the Old Malthouse Inn – a 14^th century establishment with an authentic feel, great food, lots of ghost sightings, and very low ceilings.

Tintagel, lunch at Padstow, Port Isaac. Images: John Fison/ Julie Fison

From Tintagel, we explored the castle area and the 11^th century church of St Materiana, as well as the beautiful seaside village of Port Isaac (made famous by Doc Martin). We ventured to Padstow for lunch at one of the many Rick Stein eateries, and while the food was good, the town was packed with tourists. Then it rained. I was very happy to leave busy Padstow. But I will definitely be back to hike more of the South West Coast Path.

Happy hiking!

Here’s what to expect at the Big Red Bash

If you saw the news footage of 5000 people dancing the Nutbush in the middle of the desert, had a massive case of FOMO, and wondered why you weren’t partying at the Big Red Bash, I get it! I felt exactly the same when I first discovered what was going on in a far-flung corner of Queensland. The Big Red Bash, staged every year on the edge of the Simpson Desert, just outside Birdsville, is billed as the most remote music festival on the planet. But it is so much more than that. Part eighties rock concert, part family fun fair, part world-record busting dance-off, part fancy dress party. And when the rain comes down, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d arrived on the set of a Mad Max film.

As the iconic Aussie festival celebrated its 10^th birthday, we joined the convoy west for an unforgettable adventure. Travelling from Brisbane, we drove 1600km via Roma, Charleville, Quilpie, Windorah, Betoota and Birdsville, trying, unsuccessfully, to beat a massive rainstorm that was sweeping across the country and threatening to swamp the festival.

The world’s most remote music festival – The Big Red Bash. Images: John Fison/ Julie Fison

Was it worth the drive, the rain, the mud, the flat tyre and the composting toilets to do a line-dance and see a bunch of ageing rockers strut their stuff? You bet! Loved every minute of it. There’s nothing like a bit of adversity to make the highlights so much brighter. But to make the most of the Big Red Bash, you need to do more than learn a few dance steps. Here are a few things you should know before you rummage through your dress-up box for a Tina Turner wig and hit the highway.

Hoodoo Gurus on stage. Image: John Fison

What’s it all about?

The Big Red Bash has been going for 10 years. It started out as an add-on to an extreme marathon on the edge of the Simpson Desert, run by Greg Donovan, to raise money for juvenile diabetes. Now, it is an Aussie outback institution. This year we were among 10,000 people who made the long trek to the three-day festival to see eighties legends Icehouse, the Hoodoo Gurus, the Angels and others do their thing. A massive unseasonal rainstorm presented real challenges for organisers and campers – turning the entire site to sticky mud. But thankfully the rain stopped in time for the festival to kick off, and when the skies cleared, the dankness underfoot was forgotten.

How do you get there?

Here’s the thing. You can fly to Birdsville and take a charter bus out to the festival site at Bashville (the bands and media do), and you might be able to secure one of the Rent-a-Tents. But you’d be missing out on a very big part of the experience. This is a remote festival. Birdsville is 1600km from Brisbane, 1200km from Adelaide (if the Birdsville Track is open) and 1900km from Sydney. It’s a really, really long way from anywhere, so the journey is half the fun! Driving through outback towns, stopping off at iconic pubs, spotting wedge-tailed eagles, emus and wallabies from the car is all part of the adventure. Officially you can get to the Big Red Bash in a 2WD, but a 4WD is the way to go. This is channel country. Even if there’s a light shower of rain, the dirt track to Birdsville gets very slippery. A bit more rain and the channels start to run. That means it gets flooded very quickly. It’s easy to get bogged and blow a tyre even in a study vehicle. You can also get stranded if the roads are too slushy to use. Travel with other vehicles and use a two-way radio to stay in contact. Your mobile phone will be useless outside town.

We’ve come a long way! Images: John Fison/ Julie Fison

We headed for the Big Red Bash with three other couples, and had a great trip until we got to Betoota – found the camping site around the pub was already a slush fest – and decided to push on another two hours to Birdsville. We arrived in the dark, had a quick meal in the pub, and then started looking for a camp site among the thousands already packed into the caravan park and spread around the common. We ended up parked just off the highway for the night. The morning brought more rain, a flat tyre and mutterings of a Plan B. The road to the festival had been closed and it looked like the Big Red Bash would be a wash out. After a full day holed up in the Birdsville pub, the sun finally started to peak through. The next morning, the clouds were still hanging around like a damp blanket, but we managed to get into the festival site. It was muddy, yes, but once we had a fire going, put on our blue wigs for our first world-record attempt, things were back on track. Others weren’t so lucky. Road closures meant they were stranded hours away from the festival. Some eventually got through. Others didn’t make it at all.

Sounds pretty hard core

It is! Be prepared. Spare tyres, spare fuel, tools, food, water, etc. If you’ve never done an outback drive, get advice from experts. You also need to be very well-prepared for camping at the Big Red Bash. Most people tow some kind of caravan or camper trailer, and set up like they are ready for the apocalypse. Fire cauldrons, tarps, awnings, solar panels, spare batteries, lights, and flags! Prep meals and freeze them ahead of time, and pack a jaffle iron and savoury mince just like your Mum did when you went camping as a kid. A dozen food vans offer a good range of options in the main festival area. Queues can be long and you’ll need cash, as some have no EPTPOS facility. You can buy ice and wood on site, but make sure you pre-order as it runs out quickly. As for WIFI, you can purchase a daily package, but it will only work in a small area in the plaza.

Big Red Bash. Images: Julie Fison/ John Fison

Will my campsite be near the stage?

The Big Red Bash is organised with military precision. You’ll be allocated a campsite (solo or in a group of four vehicles) on arrival. The later you arrive, the further you will be from the stage. We were among the last to roll in and camped about 800 metres from the main plaza. It was a long walk to see the bands, to cart picnic food (no glass in the plaza area), and chairs, but it also meant less passing traffic, which I really liked. If you want to be close to the front, pay for an early entry pass.